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Absolutely! We service almost all makes and models of heating and cooling equipment. Here is just a sampling. Don’t see your brand? Just call and ask!

  • Air Ease Systems
  • Amana Systems
  • American Standard Systems
  • Arcoaire Systems
  • Armstrong Systems
  • Bard Systems
  • Bryant Systems
  • Carrier Systems
  • ClimateMaster Systems
  • Coleman Systems
  • Comfort-Aire Systems
  • Comfortmaker Systems
  • Ducane Systems
  • Frigidaire Systems
  • Gibson Systems
  • Heil Systems
  • Janitrol Systems
  • Kelvinator Systems
  • Lennox Systems
  • LG Electronics USA Systems
  • Luxaire Systems
  • Marvair Systems
  • Master Cool Systems
  • Maytag Systems
  • Philco Systems
  • Reznor Systems
  • Rheem Systems
  • Samsung Systems
  • Sanyo Systems
  • Tappan Systems
  • Tempstar Systems
  • Trane Systems
  • United CoolAir
  • Westinghouse Systems
  • York Systems


Some thermostats have an emergency heat setting, this also can be called auxiliary heat which is a more accurate name, as it’s not a true emergency in any sense. Your outdoor heat pump works very efficiently to heat and cool your home in almost all weather and temperature conditions. However, when it is very, very cold outside the sensor on your heat pump may tell your thermostat that it won’t be able to keep up and to please turn on the indoor heater. That is when the emergency heat light comes on and it simply means you are heating your home with your inside furnace and not your heat pump. If you have an all electric home and this happens it can make your electricity bill more expensive. Because of this, if you notice the emergency light coming on and it’s only moderately cold outside, you should have a service call as your heat pump could possibly be not functioning properly, and why spend extra money if you don’t have to? But in most cases emergency heat does not actually mean something is wrong but simply means it’s gonna be a really cold day and if you have to leave your home, you better get a hat and mittens.


There are as many answers to that question as there are filter types. Please watch the video below for a good idea of the answer to that question and other filter questions.

What is the proper humidity level for my home?

Between 30% – 50% is the ideal humidity as it is moist enough to keep your skin hydrated and your sinuses working effectively at keeping viruses out of your body but is below the humidity level that dust mites with live in your home. Low humidity in homes is linked to many respiratory problems and your nose, throat, and sinuses need moisture to be effective. However high humidity is a breeding ground for allergens. According to the American Lung Association (have that be a link to this: http://www.lung.org/our-initiatives/healthy-air/indoor/indoor-air-pollutants/dust-mites.html ) “To minimize growth of dust mites, keep your home below 50 percent humidity. In humid areas, air conditioning and dehumidifiers can help. On dry days, open your windows for one hour per day to help remove humidity from the house.”

Here is another article you may find interesting: http://healthliving.today/physical-health/low-humidity-and-your-health/


Here’s the truth, this question is the reason we don’t give estimates for new heating and cooling systems over the phone. We know this often frustrates our customers who just want to know “How much is a new HVAC system going to cost me?” We won’t quote over the phone, though, because the answer to this question is complicated and we really, really need to see your home, know the age and quality of your windows, your insulation, how many trees are are shading your home and lots more info. Another factor is how efficient is your current equipment and what efficiency do you want to go to next? Having incorrectly sized equipment can make your home uncomfortable, moist, and inefficient. And it can make your equipment breakdown more frequently and not last as long. So the short answer is, I have no idea what size equipment you need, but if you let one of our advisors come to your house (it’s totally FREE) we will be able to tell you the size, why that size will be ideal, what it will cost you, and answer any other questions you might have.


This is an important question for all homeowners. 5 factors that go into this decision are:

  1. How old is my equipment? If it is under 10 years old you should almost always repair it. But after that age things get sketchy and you need to consider other factors.
  2. How efficient is my equipment? Because of new regulations, modern equipment is much, much more efficient than older equipment which means in many cases the savings on your utility bills will pay for the monthly payment of a new system.
  3. What kind of refrigerant does my air conditioner or heat pump use? If you have a system that still uses R-22 refrigerant any needed future repairs are going to be expensive as the government has phased out that refrigerant and every year the price gets even more expensive. It’s probably time to upgrade.
  4. If my current system is broken, how much is the repair going to cost? If you have an expensive repair coming up on an older system, it’s often time to replace. No need to throw good money after bad and there very likely will be more expensive repairs to come. See the chart below for a good idea of the answer to this question for your current situation. (This is the green and red chart Repair or Replace)
  5. Have you done annual maintenance on it? If you have kept up and changed your filters and had a professional HVAC technician do maintenance on your system every year, you may very well be able to keep your current system for a long time. Not only does proper maintenance often extend the life of a system, it generally keeps it’s efficiency as high as possible.